Exploring the Lowcountry


Woman standing next to man in wheelchair aboard a riverboat with paddle in background
Paul and Jessica on the Georgia Queen

The Lowcountry of Georgia and South Carolina offers natural beauty, rich history and weather that any wheelchair user can love. Balmy, subtropical temperatures make every season but summer ideal to explore the region’s bounty of barrier islands, coastal marshes and groves of live oaks dripping with moss. Fall offers a less-crowded opportunity to visit area beaches, and spring brings the most vibrant show of bright flowers and sunshine, sure to lift a mood.

The cities of Charleston, Savannah and Tybee Island are some of the oldest in the U.S., and they offer a mix of businesses, tourist attractions and restaurants unique for their classic architecture and historic roots. Don’t be discouraged by the sometimes ADA-unfriendly buildings, but do come expecting access challenges and the occasional reroute. My husband and I spent a few days traveling through some of the Lowcountry and agreed the sheer beauty and number of sites to see and places to eat were worth the minor access hassles. Here are some of the highlights we found.

woman in wheelchair pictured in front of Korean War memorial

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Savannah

For two people who started their dating life in college here riding service-elevators to eat out and maneuvering casters between cobblestones, historical Savannah has made progress, though there’s always more to do. Savannah is famous for its downtown and River Street, a center of commerce for the city that dates back to the 1700s. While the old cotton warehouses have been remodeled to hold shops and restaurants, this area still poses a challenge for wheelchair users. Only one elevator is available near the Hyatt Regency Savannah to descend safely to the Savannah River-level walkway. In fact, the path from Bay Street to River Street also has a pedestrian staircase known as the “Stone Stairs of Death,” so you get the picture.

The new Plant Riverside District on the west end of River Street has completely changed access. The area provides a modern wharf with universal design. The eateries span every type of cuisine, from a fine dining steakhouse to casual barbecue, sushi or seafood with a view of the waterway. Thoughtful planning went into the shop choices, showcasing the best in local options, like clothier J. Parker Ltd. and Byrd Cookie Company. It’s a nice slice of the best that Savannah has to offer.

Plant Riverside District

dish featuring corn on the cob, shrimp, sausage and potatoes
Lowcountry Boil

We started with an easy parking space in the new Plant Riverside parking garage that allowed us to start on the newer end of River Street and walk by the river without any trouble. We had lunch at the open-air District Seafood. Knowing Savannah’s coastal dishes, we chose Lowcountry boil, a plate of sausage, shrimp, corn, potatoes and onion served with spicy cocktail sauce. The restaurant has other Southern favorites like shrimp and grits and a soft-shell crab sandwich. The view of the passing cargo ships and busy riverfront is worth waiting for a table.

Full and satisfied, we wandered into the luxurious JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District hotel. This property, locally owned by hotelier Richard Kessler, features some of his personal fossil and art collection in the lobby. It’s an amazing and unexpected natural museum housed in a building that was once a power plant. With street performers, yoga classes, community festivals and live music, travelers could easily make a holiday at Plant Riverside alone. Rates for the hotel start around $230.

Savannah Riverboat Cruises

We are big believers in keeping everything centralized and maximizing parking opportunities. Just a little way down River Street is the Georgia Queen, which offers a riverboat dinner cruise with live music and dancing. The ticket office is across the street from the boat, so a quick call to get a ticket and some assistance at the gate will make it a ton easier. Ask for the Georgia Queen, as the company’s other boat, the Savannah River Queen, doesn’t have accessible bathrooms.

While boarding, my husband had to cover a good distance on ramps, dodging other passengers along the way. He pushes a manual chair and had no trouble; the slope up and down was reasonable. Once we were on board, the bathrooms, tables and dance floor were easily used for lots of fun.

Outside, the ends of the ship offer a great view of the river. There are a few narrow points that are tight for a chair and even one area that isn’t passable, but the views at the ends of the boat were all we needed. An elevator is located at one end to access all the levels.

Tybee Island

Known by locals as “Savannah’s beach,” Tybee Island is only about 20 minutes from downtown Savannah but feels like a different world. Unlike the elegant historic district, this is a casual but super fun atmosphere where the Atlantic meets the sand.

The major draw for tourism is the beach and the almost year-round warm weather. The city of Tybee is intent on offering services for wheelchair users, with blue Mobi-mats, ramps and beach wheelchairs available to borrow.

If you’re visiting in the offseason, the pier shouldn’t be missed. It stretches out over the water, offering a roll and stroll past fishermen and ocean lovers out for a look at the water. We saw a young boy catch a disconcertingly large shark while we walked. Don’t be fooled by the screamer of a ramp in front of the pier — the wheelchair access is located to the side.

The best way to stay near the beach is a vacation rental from a local company like Tybee Island Rentals. The staff can find a one-level home to suit any needs.

Sundae Cafe at Tybee and Sea Wolf Tybee are both solid options for food near the beach. Nestled in a strip mall, Sundae Cafe boasts a fine dining menu and a great wine list, while newcomer Sea Wolf Tybee serves oysters, hot dogs and handcrafted cocktails.

Charleston

Antebellum Charleston is a foodie and history junkie’s dream. It’s hard to take just a day to see this port city. We started with a walk around the Battery to view the incredible historic mansions.

man in wheelchair looking over riverboat railing at water
Paul enjoys the view of the Savannah River.

We decided to take a historical walking tour and happily signed up for the Charleston Ghost and Graveyard Tour given by Bulldog Tours. Part of the company’s mission is to help expand access to Charleston’s historic sites for wheelchair users. Having a guide allowed us to hear the local stories and legends. Adult tickets run around $37.

The tour started at the company’s office and went about 10 blocks. The company asks wheelchair users to call ahead to allow them to plan extra time for navigating the accessible parts of the streets to the cemetery, though they’ll take roll-ins as well, if space is available.

The cemetery is on Meeting Street at the Circular Congregational Church, the oldest English burial ground in Charleston. Visitors have reported seeing ghostly apparitions of Revolutionary War soldiers, orbs and misty figures circling the graves that date back to 1695. The guide took us behind the iron fences of the graveyard to see the handcarved tombstones and early epitaphs.

After the tour, consider a trip to the four-block City Market to pick up a Gullah sweetgrass basket or other Charleston souvenir. A little down the road, Fleet Landing Restaurant & Bar is a popular spot for the freshest of Southern seafood. If it seems that our trip focused on this cuisine, it’s just the reality of the Lowcountry. Lowcountry Southern food is indicative of its area, with an abundance of fresh fish, shrimp and oysters.

The restaurant’s building was used by the U.S. Navy until 1970. In the years after, the building fell into disrepair, until it was remodeled for Fleet Landing. It is a one-story building with accessible parking in front and a ramp. The building and bathrooms are accessible, allowing wheelchair users to enjoy the balmy breezes of Charleston Harbor.

We sampled fried green tomatoes drizzled with sauce, she-crab soup dotted with blue crab roe, and spicy shrimp and grits with Tasso gravy. The food fest ended with Key lime pie artfully decorated with raspberry sauce, made in-house. It was delicious. Reservations are absolutely necessary, or you’ll never get inside.

While there are tons of splurge-worthy spots to stay in Charleston, Holiday Inn Charleston Historic Downtown has a location right in the historic district with accessible rooms available for under $200, making it a decent way to be right downtown.


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Ray
Ray
3 years ago

Sounds great! Where did you stay and how accessible were the hotel accomodations? Any suggestions/recommendations?