“Life is not what it’s supposed to be. It’s what it is. The way you cope with it is what makes the difference.”
— Virginia Satir
On the precipice of 60, I was unceremoniously dumped by my husband of 25 years, who, without any discussion, revealed that he had been planning his departure with an “old friend” for several months. As I watched my daughter seamlessly embrace the responsibilities of adulting, I realized that the last year had delivered a life-altering trifecta. These upheavals left me reeling but presented an unexpected opportunity to redefine myself. While my professional identity as a dedicated professor and passionate advocate remained intact, my role within my family was profoundly altered. I couldn’t help but wonder: What would this new iteration of my golden years look like?
In that moment of introspection, I knew I needed a bold move to usher in my next decade. For years, my individuality had been obscured by caring for and identifying with others. And though it felt cliché, like so many middle-aged cinematic heroines, I needed to rediscover myself, reshape my home life, and gain a fresh perspective. I had always dreamed of traveling to Greece and easily persuaded my daughter Zoë, her partner Chaise, and my best friend Kristen to join me. I was eager to embrace the unknown and savor life’s simple yet profound beauty. I just hoped it would be accessible.
Athens
With five days to explore Athens, I planned an ambitious itinerary that allowed us to see a number of the most famous archaeological sites, along with some of the modern marvels, all while sampling the rich cuisine and local street life.
Temple of Poseidon
I was delighted with the newly constructed pathways that made access at the Temple of Poseidon easier. However, the sidewalk ended well before reaching the temple. Desiring a closer view of the 2500-year-old structure and the Aegean Sea, my companions aided me over a rocky incline beside the stone stairs. At the summit, I could navigate independently. The experience was awe-inspiring.
Temple of Zeus
The Temple of Olympian Zeus was one of the highlights of a city tour that included watching the iconic changing of the guards at Syntagma Square and strolling through the Panathenaic Stadium.
Power Assist
My Yamaha Navi One power assist made navigating Athens’ mostly accessible curb cuts manageable but figuring out public transportation in Athens on the fly proved tricky. I discovered that many taxis in Athens are station wagons capable of holding a manual wheelchair without disassembly, and the drivers we met were friendly and helpful. Later, I found out that the entire public transport network is also wheelchair accessible and less spendy.
Getting a Tattoo
Since the trip celebrated milestone birthdays for my daughter and me, we booked a session with a local tattoo artist to commemorate the occasion. We both got forearm tattoos—mine a dragonfly with Zoë’s name in Greek, and hers inscribed with “endless wonder.”
The Acropolis
The Acropolis is magical, and more accessible than ever. Thanks to recent upgrades, including a modern slope elevator, new accessible paths around Acropolis Hill, and special vehicles, this iconic site is now fully accessible. As the elevator made its 90-degree ascent, one companion joined me while the others took the stairs. At the summit, we marveled at the Parthenon and the breathtaking cityscape.
Athens–NYX Hotel
Our luxurious five-star hotel located in the heart of Athens, served as the perfect launchpad to explore the vibrant city. Each morning, we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast buffet with an unobstructed view of the Acropolis. Though on the more expensive end, the room was well-equipped for accessibility, featuring a roll-in shower, a raised toilet with bars, and ample space.
Cultural Center
The views from the “Lighthouse” at Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center were stunning, and the roll down the sloping side ramp made me feel like I was floating on air.
Planning and Getting Around
I planned when to travel based on two overarching goals: saving money and minimizing hassle. After discovering that ticket prices to Athens soared after early May, I opted for an April departure. As a wheelchair user due to an SCI, I wanted to avoid multiple plane changes and minimize layovers. There were many options, but United Airlines offered the most convenient schedule.
Crafting an itinerary was my next challenge. I turned to Visit Greece, the official website of the Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO), and its Traveling Beyond Barriers page for accessible travel tips. The This is Athens site also provides tailored itineraries for travelers with mobility impairments. Despite the wealth of online resources, the complexity of planning an accessible vacation, in my state of mind, was overwhelming. Overcome by information overload, I reached out to my contacts at the GNTO, who helped streamline a fully accessible itinerary.
Upon arriving at Athens International Airport after a challenging 24-hour journey, complete with a misplaced wheelchair and a crying toddler, I was thankful I arranged for an accessible van despite the additional cost. The convenience and peace of mind it provided were invaluable. Later, I discovered that Athens has many affordable transportation alternatives.
Crete
After a short flight from Athens to Crete, we landed in Heraklion, the largest city on the island. Time in Crete flowed differently; we spent our days exploring the island, visiting historical sites, and basking in the luxury of resort life. The Incredible Crete website became our go-to guide, enriching our journey with insights into Crete’s hidden gems and local culture.
Accessible Resort
For our time in Crete, we stayed at Grecotel Creta Palace on the north-facing beach in Rethymno. The resort’s integrated ramps and amenities ensured a barrier-free stay. My room was thoughtfully arranged with Greek pastries, champagne, and a birthday cake to honor my milestone. Lounging under beach cabanas, we sipped cocktails and let the sand slip through our fingers. We meandered through the hotel’s lush gardens, explored the shops, and enjoyed various amenities. The hotel, already notable for its inclusive features like accessible beach pathways and navigable grounds, is set to enhance its facilities further with upcoming winter renovations, promising even greater accessibility.
Birthday Lunch
I celebrated my 60th birthday in downtown Heraklion at Petousis Taverna by raising a glass of champagne to new beginnings and the decade ahead at precisely 4:24 PM on my birthday, April 24, 2024.
Arkadi Monastery
A makeshift wheelchair ramp at Arkadi Monastery is a modern symbol of independence, echoing the site’s historic resilience during Greece’s fight for freedom.
Agreco Dinner
Our final day in Crete ended in a memorable dinner at Agreco Farms with the director of GRECOTEL. Watching the sunset over the Aegean Sea, our engaging conversation deepened our appreciation of Cretan culture and hospitality.
Recharged and Ready
The trip ended too soon, but I returned home, ready to embrace the changes that had upended my life. The last year reminded me that life is unpredictable and doesn’t always turn out how it’s supposed to. It’s what one does that makes the difference. Unfettered by home-life obligations now, I plan to apply to be a Fulbright Scholar so I can teach Disability Studies at the University of Crete in Spring 2026.
Resources
Regional Resources
The Incredible Crete
Visit Greece
This is Athens
Places
NYX Esperia Palace Athens
Grecotel, Luxury Hotels and Resorts throughout Greece
Other
SeaAccess
SeaAccess is an innovative accessibility mechanism that enables people with mobility issues to enjoy the sea autonomously by safely and comfortably transporting them from the beach to the sea and vice versa.
SEATRAC
SEATRAC is a free service that offers unassisted sea access to people with disabilities and mobility.
Support New MobilityWait! Before you wander off to other parts of the internet, please consider supporting New Mobility. For more than three decades, New Mobility has published groundbreaking content for active wheelchair users. We share practical advice from wheelchair users across the country, review life-changing technology and demand equity in healthcare, travel and all facets of life. But none of this is cheap, easy or profitable. Your support helps us give wheelchair users the resources to build a fulfilling life. |
I had an incredible trip and met many amazing people. I am thankful for the GNTO and everyone who helped me navigate Greece successfully. I discovered Orbito Travel upon my return and recommend them to anyone with a disability who travels. They thoroughly vet their sites for access and offer many affordable options. I would’ve saved 200 a night if I had booked my hotel through them. I know I sound like an ad, but I have decided my golden years will involve a lot more travel, and I need to know it’s accessible before I go.. https://www.orbito.travel/